Replacement Honeywell ST9100C for WiFi Unit

[Motzil]

Hi Guys and Gals

I'm after a little advise here. I have a Worcester boiler which is controlled by a Honeywell ST9100C. I looking to replace it with a WiFi controller that uses mains power not battery like the HIVE controllers.

My current system has hot water on, heating off and heating on. plus UK 3 core Live, Nutral, Earth controled by a Drayton room thermostat but this doesnt always work at the right tempreture. So I'm happy to make this redundant and use the timed settings if needed but more over turn the heating on via an app when i'm on my way home from work. My question thereofre is which is the best way to go and with which unit

 

[SteveA1962]

Hi Motzil. I had exactly the same set up. I have left the hot water to work on the programmer and changed the thermostat to a wifi version. Only difference was my thermostat wiring had live, neutral, earth (not req) and a switched live.

To do this I had to change the heating to 'constant' on the programmer. I just bought a basic wifi thermostat - the Beok bot-313 wifi. Try googling for more info. I got mine from Aliexpress for less than £25. Worth looking at on Amazon as well as posters have added extra advice on the deeper back-box needed and how to wire it up (mine was Live to L, Neutral to N, switched live to 5 and a short bridge cable from L to 6).

If you do use this, when using the 'Beok Home' app I find the 'eu' version seems to work best for some reason.

I bought this cheap version first to to test if it would meet my needs. It has now been in for several years and works perfectly. If you don't have the switched live perhaps an electrician could advise what else would work.

Hope this helps.

 

[Motzil]

Hi Steve many thanks for the reply.

Do I understand you correctly? Are you saying you completely removed the Drayton Combi Boiler thermostat and replaced it with the Beok bot-313? Using the existing wire from the current thermostat. I currently have two lives one neutral to the Combie thermostat Blue/Nutral to N Brown/Live to L and a second Brown/live to L2 I'm assuming this is my second switched live the two earths can be capped together as the unit doesn't need to be earthed.

Or are you saying you wired the Thermostat directly to the boiler as an additional thermostat?

Beok bot-313 wifi To do this I had to change the heating to 'constant' on the programmer. I just bought a basic wifi thermostat - the Beok bot-313 wifi. Try googling for more info. I got mine from Aliexpress for less than £25. Worth looking at on Amazon as well as posters have added extra advice on the deeper back-box needed and how to wire it up (mine was Live to L, Neutral to N, switched live to 5 and a short bridge cable from L to 6).

Hi Motzil. I had exactly the same set up. I have left the hot water to work on the programmer and changed the thermostat to a wifi version. Only difference was my thermostat wiring had live, neutral, earth (not req) and a switched live.

To do this I had to change the heating to 'constant' on the programmer. I just bought a basic wifi thermostat - the Beok bot-313 wifi. Try googling for more info. I got mine from Aliexpress for less than £25. Worth looking at on Amazon as well as posters have added extra advice on the deeper back-box needed and how to wire it up (mine was Live to L, Neutral to N, switched live to 5 and a short bridge cable from L to 6).

If you do use this, when using the 'Beok Home' app I find the 'eu' version seems to work best for some reason.

I bought this cheap version first to to test if it would meet my needs. It has now been in for several years and works perfectly. If you don't have the switched live perhaps an electrician could advise what else would work.

Hope this helps.

 

[SteveA1962]

Hi Steve many thanks for the reply.

Do I understand you correctly? Are you saying you completely removed the Drayton Combi Boiler thermostat and replaced it with the Beok bot-313? Using the existing wire from the current thermostat. I currently have two lives one neutral to the Combie thermostat Blue/Nutral to N Brown/Live to L and a second Brown/live to L2 I'm assuming this is my second switched live the two earths can be capped together as the unit doesn't need to be earthed.

Or are you saying you wired the Thermostat directly to the boiler as

Hi Motzil. Ah, you have a combi boiler - I assumed you had a traditional boiler with a hot water cylinder. I use the Honeywell programmer to heat the (cylinder) hot water early morning and early afternoon when we don't have the heating on. I then have the heating programme set to constant so it is controlled by the wifi thermostat only. And yes, this wall thermostat was a direct replacement that just needed the live, neutral and switched live to control the heating.

Not sure this works with a combi boiler in the same way - although all you are doing is switching the thermostat with something a little more complex.

Hope you find something that works for you.

 

[SteveA1962]

This is a pic of it wired in - replacing what was a Tower room thermostat

 

[Motzil]

This is a pic of it wired in - replacing what was a Tower room thermostat

Brilliant Many Thanks, I already have the LIve which goes to the L pin. The switch Live goes to pin 2 the neutral to N and it looks like your guy has wired the live & neutral to L & N the live switch looks to go to the sensor with a bridged live feed to the other side of the switch 5 & 6

Therefore, I can just literally replace the existing thermostat with one of these and add a bridging wire. I will double-check it with my young nephew who is a fully qualified Sparky first though, don't want to warm the place up to the state I come home to a blazing fire 😂😂