Hello Plumbers
I’ve replaced a 540mm high cast iron rad with 740mm high, like for like but still a 20mm valve extension was required.
All was ok until I've spotted a v small leak (like 1 drip per hour) between the valve nut and extension piece.
So I suspect I just need more PTFE + compound, right?
Main question is, as there's a drain cock below the lock shield valve (NB it's not an integrated/one piece drain cock/valve - see photo) is there a quicker way to drain this rad that avoids draining the whole system? E.g. TRV off, lockshield open + drain cock then open?
I'm comfortable with individually isolating and draining this rad but as it's got 20 L of water inside it will take ages.
So just wondering what the best method is that balances speed with faff and avoiding more inhibitor, if possible.
Helpful feedback is very welcome, thanks
I’ve replaced a 540mm high cast iron rad with 740mm high, like for like but still a 20mm valve extension was required.
All was ok until I've spotted a v small leak (like 1 drip per hour) between the valve nut and extension piece.
So I suspect I just need more PTFE + compound, right?
Main question is, as there's a drain cock below the lock shield valve (NB it's not an integrated/one piece drain cock/valve - see photo) is there a quicker way to drain this rad that avoids draining the whole system? E.g. TRV off, lockshield open + drain cock then open?
I'm comfortable with individually isolating and draining this rad but as it's got 20 L of water inside it will take ages.
So just wondering what the best method is that balances speed with faff and avoiding more inhibitor, if possible.
Helpful feedback is very welcome, thanks