Disconnecting Bidet

[Traveller 47]

A simple procedure has turned difficult. I am trying to disconnect a floor-mounted bidet so I can change the click clack waste. All is straightforward apart from disconnecting the two flexible hoses to the mixer tap. I had expected the two isolators to make this easy but was unable to turn the nuts at their upper ends to release the flexible hoses. I now wonder whether the isolators are built in to the hoses. If that is the case, I would have to undo the compression joint on the (lower) mains supply side of the isolator which makes no sense. Obviously the water is turned off at the mains but inevitably some would get spilled onto the carpet etc.

I have attached a picture of the end of the flexible hose and the isolator. Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

 

[snowhead]

That's a separate valve and hose.
The built in ones don't have a nut, they're crimped like below,,

 

[Basher]

You need to hold the body of the valve steady with, say, an adjustable spanner, put a spanner on the top nut and heave to undo it, while taking all the reaction force on the adjustable. Don't put the bottom joint or pipe under undue stress.

 

[Traveller 47]

That's a separate valve and hose.
The built in ones don't have a nut, they're crimped like below,,

View attachment 87372

You need to hold the body of the valve steady with, say, an adjustable spanner, put a spanner on the top nut and heave to undo it, while taking all the reaction force on the adjustable. Don't put the bottom joint or pipe under undue stress.

Thanks. Maybe the nuts are just extremely tight. I assume they do not have a left-hand thread - I’ve never seen one that does!?

 

[Ben-gee]

It looks like they’ve run out of thread which can result in a tight metal/metal join where the nut hits the valve body - once you’ve cracked that joint I expect it to come undone easily.
To avoid this situation it is best to add an extra “shower hose” washer to the end of the flexi.

 

[Traveller 47]

Thanks. Maybe the nuts are just extremely tight. I assume they do not have a left-hand thread - I’ve never seen one that does!?

Thank you. Yes, could be the case. I will try a hair dryer to warm it up a bit - might help.

 

[Traveller 47]

Thought I should post the outcome of this. I finally releases the two tight nuts at the end of the tap hoses. I had to use two huge spanner’s and even then it was far from easy. The whole of the first turn of the nut was very hard work.

There are black rubber washers in each tap hose but it does seem the nuts were more or less out of thread. When I reassemble it, should I use a fibre washer under the rubber one to gain a bit of thread?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Would recommend replacing the flexis and putting them on these so you will need one replacement valve eg

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/flomasta-isolating-valve-15mm-2-pack/65251

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/tesla...exible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-1-2-2-pack/2665r

 

[Traveller 47]

OK, thanks for the good advice. However, what do you mean by needing one replacement valve?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

OK, thanks for the good advice. However, what do you mean by needing one replacement valve?

You will need two nuts and olives for the compression side of the valve

 

[Traveller 47]

You will need two nuts and olives for the compression side of the valve

Thanks again. The end of the tap hose remote from the tap, which connects with the isolator valve, is equipped with a nut and an internal rubber washer. Is that a problem? The sharp edge of the valve seems to cut into the washer.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks again. The end of the tap hose remote from the tap, which connects with the isolator valve, is equipped with a nut and an internal rubber washer. Is that a problem? The sharp edge of the valve seems to cut into the washer.

Yes that’s the problem and that’s why the flexis need replacing now so you will need a new set of flexis and the kit I’ve linked above to stop it doing the same or some flat face isolation valves eg 1/2 x 15mm